Sorting Science from Superstition

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The Curse of the Monkey Skull

          Shadows descended over Tali Forest in the early afternoon, the sun dappled by tall rhododendron thickets and cut mountain creases to the west. My trek leaders spoke in hushed tones of Himalayan superstitions: of birds who cry like children and fairies that dance in the wake of death. As we hiked up the mountain, I teased them for their childish ghost stories. But when we arrived at our campsite, a shiver crawled down my spine. The clearing was littered with dried bones.

          Eerie though it was, I was delighted to stumble upon a monkey skull at the edge of the woods – nearly intact, with a half set of teeth.

A dried monkey skull lying in the dirt.

          Such a unique souvenir! I thought to myself as I gingerly wrapped the oddity in layers of plastic and cloth.

          My delight quickly faded, however, when I became violently ill later that evening. The hiking had been tough on my body, and at 13,000 feet above sea level, I struggled to recover. Although I’ve spent my lifetime living at high altitudes, that night, for the first time, I was struck by acute mountain sickness (AMS).

          The following morning, after a long, miserable night in my tent, a fellow trekker pulled me aside:

          “Hey, I know this sounds out there, but legend says you should never remove anything from these woods… lest you fall sick…”

          My eyes flickered to my daypack beside me, which contained my prized monkey skull. Without him saying as much, I knew exactly what he meant: I’d return that skull if I were you.

The sun shines over lush forested mountains.

          He was right – it was out there. So why was I immediately inclined to believe his superstitious explanation? All my symptoms pointed to altitude sickness, and yet, that clinical diagnosis sat uneasily in my gut. I didn’t want to believe that my body was succumbing to the harsh demands of high elevation. In my moment of vulnerability, the notion that I had fallen victim to a monkey spirit’s curse flooded me with understanding, even relief. I’m not weak or out of shape, I reassured myself, I just angered the forest’s patrons.

          My feverish imaginings of a vengeful primate seemed to soothe my throbbing head and roiling stomach.  It was dubious, implausible, but this supernatural story allowed me to make sense of my condition. It lent mystical meaning to a memory otherwise marred by discomfort and disorientation. Most importantly, it shifted the blame off my own shoulders – admittedly, I had neglected the cardio regimen that was, evidently, necessary for acclimatization.

          There’s no doubt that modern medicine offered me something more pragmatic, more actionable than did Himalayan legend. None of our trek leaders knew how to reverse a curse, but we had medics on hand to treat AMS. My trekking cohort took it upon themselves to cure me with electrolyte packets, Acetazolamide capsules, and plenty of fresh water. Indeed, by the next day, I felt well enough to walk myself back down the mountain.

Me hiking with the Himalayan mountains in the background.

          As I arrived back at base camp, flushed with pride and accomplishment, I began to wonder: Must we forgo empiricism to accept esotericism? Can science and spirituality coexist? It was hard to deny that medical intervention had saved my ass, and yet I couldn’t shake the feeling that I had been called into the woods for a paranormal purpose. I had brawled with the forces of the forest and emerged none the worse, albeit with a newfound faith in the local people’s fables.

Shadows of Scientific Certainty

          In a previous post, I wrote about how spiritual people are particularly prone towards pseudoscience. In their belief of biblical genesis, for example, Evangelical Christians often belie evolutionary science. Moreover, we all know an *astrology girly* who dismisses medical innovations as mere harbingers of the Aquarian Age. I once attended a workshop in Boulder on traditional breath and bodywork practices, ranging from reiki to yoga to chakra massage. One of the sessions, ominously titled “The Truth About COVID-19,” turned out to be a fervid condemnation of vaccines (in hindsight, maybe I should have seen that one coming…).

          Before we write these conspiracies off, we must consider that for lay people, belief in science often requires just as much blind faith as spirituality. If NASA says that there is life on Mars, most ordinary people have no way to fact-check their claims. We possess neither the resources nor the know-how to conduct such experiments. We must simply take astrophysicists at their word, trusting that these mysterious elites, with their lofty credentials and their top-secret security clearances, are feeding us the truth about the universe.

          The scientific method is grounded in evidence and transparency, to be fair. Peer-reviewed journals exist to substantiate all the discoveries that take place behind closed doors. But most of these publications are inaccessible to the general public. Scientific knowledge is hidden behind paywalls and buried in jargon, to the extent that even exceptionally resourceful individuals struggle to discern what humankind already knows to be true. You can imagine how certain populations might grow suspicious of science, especially when our education systems discourage us from questioning its authority. Think critically about everything, we tell our children, except science. That stuff has already been proven in ways that you don’t and might never understand.

          Of course, scientists get things wrong every day. They work with existing information to develop theories, which other scholars then corroborate and modify and yes, often disprove. Our collective understanding of reality is ever evolving, but that doesn’t mean scientists are lying or incompetent or power-hungry. It simply means that they’re human. Scientists dedicate their lives to the pursuit of knowledge, and we must trust that their specialized expertise is superior to our feeble skills with Google.

          Not everyone has that kind of trust. Just as I hesitated to concede my AMS diagnosis, many people refute science for reasons both personal and systemic. And who can blame them? To believe in science is to accept that fallible humans, who attempt to answer ethically fraught questions amidst a slew of competing financial and political interests, should dictate our perceptions of existence. By contrast, it seems a whole lot easier to believe in God.

          Spirituality offers a way for common people to comprehend the inaccessible and oftentimes imperceptible findings of modern science. It is in our nature to seek answers about our surroundings; without access to peer-reviewed publications or the education to understand them, alternative explanations will inevitably arise. Long-lost legends and far-fetched fairytales are a means for us to grapple with the order of the cosmos and our place within it. They allow us to find solace, even comfort, in chaos.

The modest houses of Upper Tugasi Village with a stunning mountain valley in the background.

Conclusions: On Coexistence

          Two things can be true at once. Perhaps I came down with acute mountain sickness because I removed a monkey skull from the jungle. My willingness to indulge superstitions need not undermine my fundamental belief in science and its evidence-backed explanations of natural phenomena. When we accept that science and spirituality can coexist, we can begin to disentangle our faith from the pseudoscientific discourses that turn our spiritual practices into dangerous tools of misinformation and propaganda. We can work towards a more informed future, even while acknowledging the forces that may forever remain beyond the scope of scientific inquiry.

          As for the monkey skull, I kept it! It was far too rare a find to return. My spooky souvenir now sits on my shelf as a reminder that belief is a spectrum — science salvaged my health, but superstition made my trek unforgettable. I have since identified the skull as belonging to a Hanuman Langur (Latin name: Semnopithecus).

A chubby Hanuman Langur monkey perches on a fence.

          If there was ever a curse upon my head, well, I suppose it was short lived. I made a full recovery after my bout with AMS and have since remained in good health. I certainly intend to take altitude training more seriously next time, but allow my story to reassure you: superstitions carry only the power that you give them.

Me and my trekking cohort hold up the Kuari Pass summit banner while smiling proudly.

16.5 Things to See & Do in Central New Mexico

            We have reached the last chapter in my four-part road trip saga, and my final destination: New Mexico! I effectively procrastinated this article so long that I was forced to write it on the airplane—to a location which will be disclosed in the next article 😊 This is not to say, however, that New Mexico was not noteworthy. On the contrary, I found the state so lovely when I visited in May 2021 that I decided to return in November. I spent time in both Santa Fe and Albuquerque, and I have exactly sixteen and a half recommendations to share, should you find yourself in the area.

Santa Fe

          If, like me, you grew up listening to Broadway musical soundtracks, you might think of Santa Fe as the center of Bohemia, a mythical destination with powerful artistic allure. In Rent, Angel and Collins fantasize about leaving New York City for Santa Fe, singing “sunny Santa Fe would be nice!” And of course, no one can forget Jack Kelly of Newsies lamenting, “just a moon so big and yellow, it turns night right into day. Dreams come true in Santa Fe” in the famous song named after the city. Obviously, I played both songs on full blast on my drive into town.

            A spot of Santa Fe history before we proceed: this city boasts the oldest capitol city in the United States, as well as the oldest public building (La Palazza de Gobierno) and the oldest community celebration in the nation (La Fiesta de Santa Fe). New Mexican land transferred ownership a few times (Spain to Mexico to United States) before achieving statehood in 1912. Around that time, Anglo-Americans from the Eastern United States began to migrate to New Mexico, inspired by the expansive, breathtaking sceneries. These migrants decided to settle, creating Santa Fe’s reputation as a good place for artists to work and live. Santa Fe was viewed as “exotic” for its emphasis on indigenous art forms and its dry climate, which was thought to cure tuberculosis.  Art has always been central to the lives of Santa Fe inhabitants, from the days of the Spanish empire to the modern gallery scene. Today, Santa Fe is a major American tourist destination, with a thriving local art market that drives the city’s economy. The legacy of the native culture persists visibly in the art and architecture of the city, with unique zoning laws to preserve historic buildings such as traditional adobe houses in urban spaces. Basically, if you go to Santa Fe, go for the art!!

#1 Canyon Boulevard

          An outdoor shopping area with several streets lined with art galleries. The galleries are open weekdays, 9 am to 5 pm, so plan to spend a day there. I arrived later in the afternoon, so I only visited a handful of interior galleries, but there was a plethora of outdoor displays to behold. I took my time wandering the alleys and delighting in the colorful surprises around each corner. My absolute favorite was the wind sculpture garden at Wiford Gallery. I wound up there at sunset and it could not have been more enchanting.

#2 La Plaza

          The historic center of the city now plays host to a downtown area of restaurants, office buildings, museums, and you guessed it! More galleries! Some of these are open later than Canyon Boulevard, but you could still dedicate a whole day to perusing La Plaza’s unique architecture and selection of shops. You’ll walk right past the Palace of the Governor, as you pass the contemporary, upscale fine art galleries, but if you’re patient, street vendors will peddle their masterpieces to you at slightly more affordable rates. Besides, the streets are lined with sculptures and murals-you can get an eyeful without spending a dime!

#3 Los Museos (Museums)

          After the influx of Anglo-American immigrants in the early 1900s, the city of Santa Fe began to emphasize art culture and quickly opened a native art museum (New Mexico Museum of Art) to increase the momentum from tourism. Since then, the city has welcomed five more art museums, as well as several other museums dedicated to the cultural heritage and history of the city. I personally only had time to visit the IAIA Museum of Contemporary Native Arts, however the Georgia O’Keefe Museum and the Museum of International Folk Art are both internationally renowned. When I left, I vowed to return to visit all the museums I missed.

#4 House of Eternal Return

          YUSSS! Meow Wolf’s first ever permanent installation is housed in Santa Fe, and that should tell you all you need to know about this city as the Art Capital of the American West. Unless that would be Los Angeles. Anyway…you can read my full review of House of Eternal Return in my article on Immersive Art, but suffice to say that Meow Wolf’s humble origins still blows most immersive art exhibits out of the water. Unlike the newer exhibits, HoER is mainly sculpture based, taking attendees on a psychedelic adventure through a family’s home that is trapped between dimensions. I went by myself and spent four hours inside the exhibit, fully unpacking every element of the expansive narrative. I also made friends in there! If you want to go, plan your time accordingly.

#5 La Fiesta de Santa Fe

          La Fiesta de Santa Fe: An honorary mention, because I wasn’t in town at the right part of the year to witness this cultural festival, but I have studied it, and it’s a huge bucket list item for me. The festivities begin in the beginning of September and continue for about a week, including elaborate reenactments of the Spanish conquest, dance and theater performances, parades, and a thrilling, symbolic burning of a giant effigy named Zozobra. The entire fiesta is a celebration of the unity of the Pueblo and the Spanish cultures, and a dream ethnography for an anthropologist like me!

#6 The Flying Tortilla

          A Mexican American breakfast joint with fabulous chilaquiles (fried tortillas with tomato sauce and eggs) y chile rellenos vegetarianos (breaded poblano peppers stuffed with veggies and cheese)

#7 Café Castro

          A Mexican restaurant that boasted the most impressive array of vegetarian options I have ever seen! I opted for the tamales, which I have been craving since I gave up meat two years ago!

#8 Annapurna’s World Vegetarian Café

          A Santa Fe veggie staple, from what I understand. It’s known for its hearty, flavorful vegetarian cuisine from around the world, including Indian, Lebanese, and of course, New Mexican dishes. My uncle and I are both naturally inclined towards Indian food, so we enjoyed a sampling of dal (lentils), subzi (vegetable) curry, and rice. We ordered take out, so I can’t say much of the restaurant’s ambience….until I get to the Albuquerque section, and you’ll see why.

#9 Dale Balls Trail

          I hiked this trail system in early May and was enamored by the vibrant, unexpected color in the desert: brilliantly red cactus blooms, fuzzy pastel-colored lichens, and the occasional yellowing weed struggling to survive in the sand. I hiked to a height of 8500 feet where I happened upon 360 views- in one direction, Santa Fe’s low skyline, and in the other direction, arid landscapes as far as the eye could see.

#10 Bandelier National Monument

          Okay, this one is technically in the town of Los Alamos, New Mexico, about an hour outside of Santa Fe. This national monument preserves mesa and canyon landscapes that have been settled for over 1,000 years, first by the Ancestral Puebloans and then by Spanish colonizers. Adobe structures and cliff dwellings still stand within the park, and visitors are invited to climb the rocky crags to experience life in a cliffside. The weather was perfect in November—if you go during the summer, be sure to bring a hat and sunscreen as the walking trails are mostly unshaded.

Albuquerque

          Admittedly, Albuquerque never had the appeal that Santa Fe once had for me. I had always wanted to experience Santa Fe, my Mecca as a musical theater student. My uncle recently completed his PhD in Los Alamos, a nearby town, and I reached out to him about my visit, which was very spontaneous…as in the day before. By pure coincidence, he had moved to Santa Fe mere weeks before I wrote to him; he hosted me that weekend and the whole trip worked out beautifully and serendipitously.

          But when my playwriting colleagues from undergrad told me they were moving to Albuquerque, I wanted to ask, “why?!”  Beckie and Brayden, some of my closest college friends, desperately needed a change of scenery a few months into the pandemic. I promised them I would come to visit, and I made it the grand finale of my cross-country road trip. Nevertheless, I enjoyed my time in Albuquerque, and found it to be a quirky, interesting place where I would like to spend more time.

          In my experience, Albuquerque contrasts Santa Fe in many ways. While Santa Fe is the state’s capital and cultural center, Albuquerque has served as an important trading center since its founding in 1706, serviced by several major railroads, airlines, and highways. The city has a markedly more urban feel to it, despite being bounded by the Sandia Mountains to the north, the Manzano Mountains to the East, lava fields to the West, and the Rio Grande River through the center. One of Albuquerque’s major draws is its low cost of living compared to other major cities in the Southwest, and especially when compared to Santa Fe.

#11 Anodyne

          A relaxed billiard hall/ pub on Central Ave, in a prime spot downtown. I enjoyed a margarita; I’ve heard they also serve perfectly cooked tacos. I’m not the best at pool, but I was enthused to discover a modest array of pinball machines in the back of the dimly lit establishment. Pinball has kinda been my thing recently—more on that later—so it really made my night to shoot a few rounds on The Addams Family machine!

#12 Effex

          As a raver, I’ve seen my fair share of clubs across the country (and even across the globe). Each has its own merits, and some have none (ahem, Skully’s in Columbus). With Effex, I was most impressed by the variety in music and the rowdiness of the crowd. When we arrived at around 10 pm, I watched four girls fall down the stairs within five minutes of each other. Everyone had gone all out with their costumes, and the highlight of the night was easily when Bohemian Rhapsody began to play and a spotlight illuminated a man next to us who turned out to be Freddie Mercury In the Flesh!!! With his wife beater and mustache, he was indistinguishable from the real Freddie, and the entire crowd egged him on as he performed a dramatic rendition of the legendary six-minute song. We ended up befriending Freddie Mercury—he was a fun dude!

Effex

#13 Salt & Board

          An intimate, upscale charcuterie restaurant that my friend, Brayden, proudly manages. He treated us to a lovely night of sweet and salty samplings, with my favorites being the spicy mustard and the array of soft cheeses. My tip for charcuterie dining—pay attention when your server tells you what’s on the board. I know Brayden was frustrated when we asked him what everything was for the fourth time, but some foods are more self-explanatory than others, okay?!

#14 Vinaigrette

          A gourmet salad bistro in Old Town. Of course, restaurants with several good vegetarian options will always earn my vote, but this one really captivated me with its cozy nature-based aesthetic. At the beginning of November, it was still warm enough for us to sit on the patio and soak up some desert rays. I was utterly amused by the succulents on each table that had grown so vigorously they had cracked their clay pots. The food was delicious as well, with excellent service.

#15 Watrous Coffee House

          A spacious, modern coffee shop with huge windows for ample natural light. I’m no coffee connoisseur, so I make no remarks in that regard, but I was very pleased with my pastry and *the vibes*

#15.5 Annapurna’s World Vegetarian Café

          My friend Brayden raved about this place, but I never connected the dots! The cafe building hosts an Ayurvedic cooking school, and the exterior murals depict Shiva, the Hindu destroyer god, so naturally my interest was heightened. However, I didn’t realize that this was another location of the restaurant in Santa Fe until months later! So, I tried the food in Santa Fe (amazing) and I experienced the environment in Albuquerque (also amazing) and therefore my overall review of the chain is this: amazing! BUT to be fair, I think a second location should only be considered ½ of a destination.

Annapurnas

#16.5 Pino Trail

          A relatively flat yet scenic trek through the foothills of the Sandia Mountain Wilderness area. My playwriting friends were particularly fond of this trail for its proximity to their apartment. On this hike, I was drawn to the textures of the desert. Bushels of cactus spines appeared fuzzy and wild grasses contorted into tiny curlicues. We stopped hiking after a mile or so to attempt (with varying levels of success) to climb a boulder. Eventually, we all ended up on rocks and snapped some cute shots.  

          There you have it: 16.5 things to do and see in central New Mexico! I found both Santa Fe and Albuquerque to be exciting cities with tons of engaging activities, from indulging my inner foodie to marveling at the natural sceneries. Of course, it helped that my friends and family in the state are positively wonderful people. New Mexico is a big state; there’s plenty I haven’t seen and for that reason, I will surely be back within the next few years. Carlsbad Caverns, I’m coming for you!

Country Roads

            Hello, friends! I apologize for being MIA…I have been applying for *grad school*. I won’t say too much, lest I jinx my chances at admission, but I am very much looking forward to moving to a new state and embarking on this new academic adventure. Now that the application deadline has passed, I can get back to chronicling my cross-country road trip last fall! Oh yes, we have several more destinations to cover.

            We left off in Washington D.C., where I speed ran the National Mall and was left craving several more days in our nation’s capital. I left my parking spot in the city (that garage had started to feel very homey!) and made the short drive across state borders into Virginia. I camped in my car that evening, and the following day brought new adventures of the national park variety!

Shenandoah National Park: Virginia

            On my days in the national parks, I got in the habit of starting early at the visitor center. I picked up a map, enjoyed the views from the accessible scenic overlook, and enlisted a ranger’s help to figure out which parts of the park would be best for mushroom foraging. Unsurprisingly, the ranger had to ask another ranger, and then another, until they all eventually admitted that none of them had any idea. But they pointed me to their favorite trails, which was a good start.

            I ended up on a quiet wooded trail that eventually led me downhill to a gentle creek. I didn’t have much luck in my fungus hunt until I moved to sit at the edge of the water. As I turned to step over a tree’s exposed roots, I discovered that its North-facing side was entirely covered in fungus! I spent a long moment sitting on a fallen log and admiring the forest before heading back to my car.

            I pulled off at a picnic area and broke out my camp stove for the first time on my journey. I prepared a simple meal of gnocchi and red sauce—the ingredients for which I had saved from Trader Joe’s in Columbus. As I enjoyed my lunch, I found a great deal of amusement in watching a toddler boy attempt to escape his parents by sprinting into the woods.

            Then, I took a peaceful, winding drive down Skyline Drive, the road that runs 105 miles North to South along the crest of the Blue Ridge mountains. I pulled off at a scenic overlook near the middle of the park and camped out for a few hours to watch the sunset. Upon awkwardly crawling out of my Subaru’s moon roof, the top of my car offered stunning views of the Blue Ridge mountains, as well as a very good fluffy boy. I sat there long enough to discover that this little dog’s name was Leonardo Davinci, and that Davinci was not, in fact, the original inventor’s last name, but rather a notator of his hometown (da Vinci, meaning “of Vinci,” a city in Italy). I also befriended Leo’s owners and had an all-around lovely time watching the sun illuminate the hills in brilliant hues of reds and oranges.

New River Gorge National Park: West Virginia

            The next day, I was on to another national park—the one most recently added to America’s roster! Having only been named a national park in 2020, much of New River Gorge remains private property. A railroad runs straight through the park, sectioning off natural landmarks in ways that are occasionally confusing and frustrating to navigate. As became my tradition, I asked a ranger to recommend a trail for fungus hunting and was sent to a short trail just across the highway from the visitor center. ‘Twas a lovely hike, but not so fruitful for my mushroom endeavors. I then wound down the highway, taking a discrete side road that led me many miles into the hills and away from cell service. The drive was somewhat disorienting; the views were beautiful, but at any given moment, I had no idea whether I was ambling about on federally owned land or if I was accidentally trespassing on someone’s private property. I did eventually make it to my destination: a trailhead/ picnic area/ stunning, secluded beachfront to the New River and its respective gorge. I recycled leftovers from the day before to prepare lunch out of the back of my car, then walked down to the beach and had the whole stretch of river to myself. It was absolutely one of the highlights of my trip.

            After lunch, I followed the trailhead that led away from my private beach. It led me on a gander through the woods along the river, and I came to appreciate why this Appalachian oasis had been deemed one of our country’s natural treasures. I had been to West Virginia a few times prior to this trip, and admittedly I had come to view the state as unforgivably strange. Even still, my time in New River Gorge was incredibly introspective, awe-inspiring, and I would go back in a heartbeat.

Spiritual Materialism: Asheville, North Carolina

            Night 3 of car camping in a Walmart parking lot completed, I set off for my most anticipated destination. I was greeted by Jess, one of my friends from when I lived at a marina in Tennessee. She had been dying to show me around Asheville ever since I expressed interest when we met in the summer of 2020, and her hype did not disappoint! The city gave me big Santa Fe vibes, with hordes of local coffee shops, craft breweries, and hippie dippy stores lining every street for blocks. We began the day with breakfast at Early Girl Eatery, where I indulged in spinach and potato cakes. Half of the menu was plant-based, excitingly, so I simply must go back to try all the options I spurned the first time.

            We spent the better part of the morning and early afternoon exploring all the shops, from imported metaphysical goods to local artisan crafts. I’m typically not much of a souvenir gal, but even I was tempted by Asheville’s boho chic selection—I came away with a tree of life necklace, a vintage mushroom poster, some stickers, and a print for my goddess art collection. It took a looooottttt of willpower to not splurge on a cat tarot deck and a necklace fashioned from the skull of a tiny woodland creature. Inevitably, we closed out the afternoon with an adult beverage at Bhramari Brewing. I quite enjoyed the time spent chatting with Jess, sampling my beer flight, and ogling at the bastardizations of Hindu gods depicted in murals on the brewery’s open patio.

            I will say, I think Asheville has a lot of spiritual spectacle and very little substance—similar to Santa Fe, at least in my opinion. I get the vibe that it was once a nice place for nature-oriented artists and spiritualists to live, but it has become so gentrified in recent years that those people can no longer afford to stay and draw inspiration from the breathtaking natural scenery. Besides a very persistent Hare-Krishna devotee who swindled us into buying several Prabhupada texts, I didn’t encounter any truly “hippie” beliefs or traditions. Just a lot of white folks bent on peddling their ‘spiritual’ materials—an oxymoron if I’ve ever written one.  Nevertheless, I liked catching up with Jess and taking a short break from my normal lifestyle, which is usually quite minimalistic.

Kittens and Beignets: Johnson City, Tennessee

            Jess lives a short drive away from Asheville in Johnson City, so I got to meet her roommate and her two cats, Echo and Love. Love was a tiny kitten when I visited—only 6 weeks old—and she took a liking to clambering on me in my sleep. I wasn’t mad. We also went to Babbette’s Coffee Shop one morning and I was delighted to see beignets on the menu. They were amazing, albeit a very messy car snack.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park:
Tennessee/ North Carolina

            As the most heavily trafficked National Park in the United States, the Great Smokies were naturally a priority on my journey down South. The Appalachian Mountains are an entirely different beast from the Rockies, but no less majestic. I was taken aback by the lush greenery in the park, how the entirety of each rolling hill was enveloped in rainbow vegetation as the trees underwent their autumnal transformations. It was certainly perfect timing to see the park.

            Again, I consulted a park ranger for help with my mycological quest, and for the first time, I found someone who knew what he was talking about! He recommended a short trail off Newfound Gap Road, where he claimed he had spotted a variety of shelf fungus. He did not lead me astray, as I saw a bounty of polypore mushrooms and turkey tails popping off the trees. This trail was a short stint of the Appalachian Trail, so I crossed paths with several hikers who were carrying impressive loads of gear and had clearly traveled long distances. It was so inspiring that I might have to go back and hike the whole thing one day 😉

            In the afternoon, I began the drive to the center of the park, to the highest point on the AT: Clingman’s Dome. I intended to do a bit more hiking to reach the summit, but just as I turned into the trailhead’s parking lot, a frightening grey cloud descended over the park. Ultimately, the rain only lasted for a few hours, but it was enough to deter me from the solo high elevation hike, especially because I lacked proper waterproof gear. I decided that the views from the car sufficed, and I drove through the cute little town of Gatlinburg on my way out of the park.

Hot Gossip: Knoxville, Tennessee

            Knoxville has a special place in my heart, as the biggest city close to where I lived in Tennessee. On our weekends off from our marina jobs, Payton and I used to drive down to Knoxville to enjoy the local restaurants and peruse the quaint downtown area. This time around, I was just stopping in for an afternoon to see my friend Taylor, whom I also worked with at the marina!

            Bubbly and cheerful as ever, Taylor met me at The Tomato Head, a soup and sandwich place with tons of vegetarian options. We caught up over lunch and she dished all the hot gossip from this year’s crew of servers at Shanghai (the marina we both worked at).

            Taylor had to head to work shortly thereafter, so I had some time to kill. I headed to the library at the University of Knoxville, where I posted up for several hours and got some work done. University libraries were my best friends on this trip—they’re one of the few places where people can sit for hours on end without being expected to buy anything. Plus, they are often open 24 hours!

Ceviche de Hongos: Chattanooga, Tennessee

            The next day, it was off to Chattanooga, along the Southern border of Tennessee. I reconnected with my friend Michaela, another of my coworkers from Shanghai Marina at Norris Lake. I first met up with her at a skate park, where we watched some of her friends play a field hockey game. Then we hit up a hip little bar and grill called State of Confusion. Their specialty was ceviche—for those who don’t know, ceviche is a coastal South American dish that uses acidic citrus juices to “cook” raw seafood, culminating in a fresh and flavorful fish salad. It was one of my favorites when I lived in Yucatan. I was downright stunned to see ceviche de hongos (mushroom ceviche) on State of Confusion’s menu. Two of my favorite things, combined in a way I had ever seen before! The dish was served in an oversized margarita glass and far exceeded every one of my expectations.

            Michaela had to work the following day, so I took myself on a tour of downtown Chattanooga. I walked through Coolidge Park, the city’s riverfront hang-out spot, and admired the water fountains and stone frog statues. As I ambled into the shopping area, I became enamored with the sidewalk decorations: gold plated footsteps arranged to emulate the step patterns of different dance forms. How fun, right? I ended up at Stone Cup Café, where I enjoyed a coffee, a scone, and peaceful riverside views.

Lookout Mountain: Georgia

            On my final evening in Tennessee, Michaela took me for one last adventure, which turned out to be across the border in Georgia. We drove up the side of Lookout Mountain, then hiked a short distance to the summit. At the top, cliffs dropped off at steep angles, revealing a stunning panorama of the Tennessee Valley. We sat for a long moment on the rocks, watching the sunset. We also got to witness an engagement photo shoot atop the cliffs, conducted remotely via drone. I was impressed by the photographer’s maneuvering skills, and I wish I could find that couple to see how the photos turned out!

            I spent one more night with Michaela and her cat, Lacey, before setting off again. As lovely as it was to see my old friend, I must admit it was quite the honor to meet her cat. Lacey was twenty years old. Almost as old as me. She was riddled with medical issues from her old age. One such issue was arthritic hips, which caused her to hover uncomfortably without ever fully sitting down. Instead, she would just slowly lower her chin as you petted her, ever grateful for the attention. She was also a bit…out of it because of an accidental poisoning in her youth. She would go to her litter box and simply stand in it, staring at the wall, seemingly using the litter under her paws as her own personal Zen garden. I have missed Lacey dearly ever since leaving Chattanooga.

A Random Coffee Shop in Nowhere, Alabama

            Alabama was not a destination on my trip, nor did it become one. However, I did decide to drive south out of Chattanooga, which meant I had a brief stint through rural Alabama. I decided to stop at a random coffee shop on my morning journey, and I really wish I hadn’t. I am going to write this next section in play format, because that’s the best way I know to convey this baffling experience.

AT RISE: A quaint Southern coffee shop. KAYA enters and approaches the counter.

KAYA: Hi! Could I please get an iced mocha?

BARISTA (Monotone): Sure, I can get that for you.

Beat.

KAYA: Could I also have a bagel, please?

BARISTA (Monotone): Sure, I can get that for you.

BARISTA produces a bag of bagels from below the register. He opens the bag, retrieves one bagel with his bare hand, then offers it to KAYA. KAYA reluctantly takes the bagel.

KAYA: Uh…do you have like a little tub of cream cheese to go with it?

BARISTA (Monotone): Sure, I can get that for you.

BARISTA produces an 8 oz tub of cream cheese from fridge behind him. He sets it on the counter in front of KAYA.

KAYA: Uh…

BARISTA: Oh!

BARISTA produces a metal spoon. He hands it to KAYA. KAYA begins to use the spoon to awkwardly spread cream cheese on the bagel she is holding with her bare hand.

BARISTA rings KAYA out. KAYA pays.

KAYA: I’m gonna run to the bathroom, be back for my coffee in a minute.

KAYA goes to the bathroom.

KAYA returns from the bathroom. BARISTA is still standing in the same spot.

BARISTA: Did you want ice in your iced mocha?

KAYA: ….yes, please.

BARISTA (Monotone): Sure, I can get that for you.

BARISTA prepares coffee and gives it to KAYA. KAYA leaves coffee shop as fast as possible. KAYA leaves Alabama as fast as possible.

Hot Springs National Park: Arkansas

            Hot Springs was the final National Park on my itinerary, and it was so unlike the other National Parks I had been to that I seriously doubted that I was in the right place. My navigation landed me in a parking garage in the center of Hot Springs, Arkansas, which is not a nature preserve at all, but rather, a small tourist town. I walked past a number of souvenir shops before arriving at the visitor center, which turned out to be an old bathhouse and museum.

            Apparently, water from these hot springs were believed to have healing properties in the early 20th century, and they were used for various spa treatments. However, these treatments were not administered by soaking in the natural springs, as I anticipated. Large, lavish bathhouses were built in this town to entice wealthy White guests into luxurious spa vacations. Black workers administered these treatments, which ranged from foot soaks to full-body steams. The museum in the visitor center gave guests a picture of this scene, down to the antiquated equipment used in the spa. I slowly pieced together this information as I perused the exhibits, which utilized unsettling mannequins to reenact various scenes throughout the bathhouse.

            Besides the museum, guests to this national park can also stroll up and down Fountain Street to view the selection of bathhouses. There were eight in total, several of which remain open to the public. Unfortunately, I did not get to experience the healing water itself, as I did not make a spa reservation in time. I did, however, walk behind the bathhouses at the suggestion of a park ranger. I found myself on a nature trail, heading up to a mountain tower at the top of the hill. The tower had decent vistas, but I was still completely puzzled as to why this town is considered a National Park (as opposed to a National Historic Site).

Carrie Underwood’s Hometown: Checotah, Oklahoma

            This one is an honorary mention. I did not stop here, but I was absolutely thrilled to drive through Checotah. I have long been a fan of Carrie Underwood, and I grew up singing the song off her debut album, “I Ain’t in Checotah Anymore.” As I drove through rural Oklahoma, I recognized all the landmarks mentioned in the song, like Eufala Lake! It was a fun little nod to my childhood and my long-lost love for country music.

            I was a bit wary of venturing into the American South alone—after all, I wasn’t familiar with the region, and I had heard plenty of cryptic warnings (“if you hear banjos, run!”). In the end, though, I didn’t run into any trouble, and I was grateful to explore the natural beauty in this part of the country. It was wonderful to see so many old friends, and I look forward to exploring the Appalachian Mountains a great deal more in my future adventures!