On the Eve of Feminine Rage

2.13

अतुलंतत्रतत्तेजः सर्वदेवशरीरजम् ।

एकस्थंतदभून्नारीव्याप्तलोकत्रयंत्विषा ।

“Unequaled light, born from the bodies of all the [male] gods, coalesced into a female form and pervaded the three worlds with its splendor.”

2.32

अन्यैरपिसुरैर्देवीभूषणैरायुधैस्तथा ।

सम्मानिताननादोच्चैः साट्टहासंमुहुर्मुहुः ।

“Honored also by the other gods with adornments and weapons, the Devī [Goddess] laughed thunderously and defiantly again and again.”

2.33

तस्यानादेनघोरेणकृत्स्नमापूरितंनभः ।

अमायतातिमहताप्रतिशब्दोमहानभूत ।

“She filled the entire sky with Her terrible roar, and from the immeasurable din a great echo resounded.”

2.34

चुक्षुभुः सकलालोकाः समुद्राश्चचकम्पिरे ।

चचालवसुधाचेलुः सकलाश्चमहीधराः ।

“All the worlds shook, and the oceans churned. The earth quaked, and the mountains heaved.”

3.28

इतिक्रोधसमाध्मातमापतन्तंमहासुरम् ।

दृष्टवासाचण्डिकाकोपंतद्वधायतदाकरोत ।

“When She saw the great asura approaching, inflated with rage, Candikā aroused Her wrath and prepared to slay him.”

3.34

ततः क्रुद्धाजगन्माताचण्डिकापानमुत्तमम् ।

पपौपुनः पुनश्चैवजहासारुणलोचना ।

“Angered, Candikā, the Mother of the worlds, drank a divine potion, and with eyes reddened She laughed again and again”

3.37

देव्युवगच ।

“The Devī said:”

3.38

गर्जगर्जक्षणंमूढमधुयावत्पिबाम्यहम् ।

मयात्वयिहते’ त्रैवगर्जिष्यन्त्याशुदेवताः । 

‘Bellow, you fool, bellow for now while I drink this potion. After I have slain you, the gods will cheer in this very place.’

3.40

एवमुक्त्वासमुत्पत्यसारूढातंमहासुरम् ।

पादेनाक्रम्यकण्ठेचशूलेनैनमताडयत् ।

“Having declared that, She leapt upon the great asura, pinned his neck down with Her foot, and pierced him through with Her spear.”

– The Devī Mahātmyam

Full text here. Transliteration & translation here

          The Goddess arrived in Kolkata on the morning of October 10th, her ten delicate hands dyed red with alta as they brandished the gods’ weapons. Joyfully she comes year after year to the capitol city of West Bengal, India, where the city’s residents build thousands of clay murtis (idols) to honor her many forms. Brahmin priests invite Her spirit with Sanskrit chants and clamorous drums, methodically consecrating the murtis so that Maa Durga may reside among us.

Priests prepare a ritual fire before a Goddess idol.
A havan, or ritual fire, used to invite the Goddess to earth on saptami, the seventh day of the festival.

          For Bengalis, Durga Puja is the climax of the year. The Divine Mother’s presence on earth is tangible: an exuberant energy that compels us to don our finest outfits and dance in the streets. The entire city is transformed with colorful LED panels, pop-up fuchka stalls, wandering balloon vendors, and advertising billboards. Each neighborhood crafts elaborate pandals: temporary structures that house Devī murtis in every shape and style. 

An elaborate pandal in Kolkata, surrounded by large crowds, advertisements, and festive lights.

          On the final day of the festival, devotees lovingly immerse their idols in the holy Ganges River, disintegrating them. They release the Goddess from her mortal form, and with melancholic praise, they bid Her farewell until next year.  

          Yet, this year, beneath the din of festive music, devotional mantras, and friendly chatter, a dissonant thrum builds to a crescendo. A wrathful chorus of wails, issued by a growing mob. They have gathered in the streets to demand justice.

          Two months prior to Durga Maa’s well-anticipated arrival, Kolkata was rocked by the discovery of a female doctor’s lifeless body in the seminar hall of RG Kar Medical College and Hospital. The young woman was found naked and bleeding from her genitals, mouth and eyes. Despite blatant evidence of a brutal rape and murder, the case was initially declared a suicide by the hospital’s president, who has since been accused of conspiring with local police to destroy evidence. It would seem that he is not the only one to have obstructed the investigation – for while the autopsy report clearly indicates multiple perpetrators, federal authorities continue to insist that one conviction is enough.

          This crime and its subsequent mishandling have sparked protests across India. Protesters – largely women – have raised questions as to the structures of power within the hospital and within India at large that enable these horrific abuses. Indeed, this incident, as harrowing as it is, is not altogether unfamiliar. The 2024 events at RG Kar harken back to the 2012 Nirbhaya case – involving the gang-rape and fatal assault of a physiotherapy intern on a Delhi bus – which likewise drew international attention to the alarming trend of gender-based violence in India. 

          Across the country, nearly 100 cases of rape are reported each DAY – to say nothing of the countless acts of sexual violence that go unreported. Due to the slim chances of conviction and the pervasive stigma against women’s sexuality, published statistics only convey a fraction of the dangers faced by Indian women. India is plagued by sexual assault, domestic violence, female infanticides, dowry deaths, and honor killings. And despite its ancient history of Goddess worship, India remains the most dangerous country in the world for women.

An ornate brass Devi idol

          Herein lies the problem with ancient Indic scriptures, written always by men and for men: Śakti, the cosmic feminine force, is thought to animate our reality – and yet this power may only be cultivated and controlled by men. Woman’s life is given by man, and it is forever liable to be taken by man as well. How is it that men reserve the right to desecrate the body of the Holy Mother, be she doctor, intern, or else, even as they consecrate her form sculpted from clay? How can those very same men claim to venerate the Divine Feminine while they beat and batter women, leaving them to die excruciating deaths on street sides and in seminar halls?

          Perhaps what we need now is not reverence for the Goddess, but rather unbridled fear. When She bares her teeth to issue an earth-shattering roar, men should not bow but cower. They should tremble and beg for Maa Durga’s mercy, knowing that they have not done enough to keep Her daughters safe.

A Durga idol with red clothes and encased in clay.

          In her last moments on earth, a young woman at RG Kar was made to cry tears of blood. This Durga Puja, she returns to Kolkata in the form of the Great Goddess, her eyes blazing red with unfettered rage. Through the clay idols of Devī, through the sorrowful shouts of every woman who has ever known pain, she will exact her revenge. She, and we, will know justice by her sacrifice.

          Let us arouse our wrath in service of our fallen sister, a promising young medic who had so much of her life ahead of her. Like Mahadevī, her life was designed and dissolved at the hands of men – taken too soon by a system that treats female bodies as less than male desires. May the oceans churn and may the mountains heave with the force of our rage and terrible grief, which we offer unto the world so that our daughters may live in a kinder world than do we. After we have slain this demon of our modern times – this violent, senseless patriarchy – we will not wait for the gods to cheer. We will laugh defiantly again and again, reclaiming our śakti as our own. 

A classically designed Devi murti with white garments, ornate jewelry, and red eyes.

Join the Fight:

  • Donate to Parichiti, a Kolkata-based women’s group that works towards gender equity by empowering women AND educating men.
  • Donate to MAVA (Men Against Violence and Abuse), an outreach organization dedicated to dismantling violent and patriarchal modes of socialization among young men.
  • Donate to Swayam, a feminist NGO committed to advancing women’s rights and ending gender-based violence.
  • Spread awareness about gender-based violence and injustices in India – even if you don’t live here. International visibility is highly effective in catalyzing social change.
  • Advocate for legal and social accountability – both the perpetrators of violent crimes and the bureaucrats who cover them up must be brought to justice.
  • Talk to your male friends & family members about what they can do to protect women. Gender-based violence is NOT only women’s problem to solve.

Tourists in Tiger Territory

          The morning air in Basanti was warm, with smog draped over the pink-orange sunrise like a thick layer of grey chiffon. After a 2-hour drive southeast from my Dadu Ji’s (granddad’s) house in Kolkata, we had reached the far edges of the state of West Bengal and indeed the outer borders of the country of India, but we had not yet escaped the ring of air pollution that surrounds the city center.

          The streets of Basanti town were abuzz with shopkeepers preparing their wares, mother cows bellowing to their young, and tropical birds cheerfully singing the tunes for which they were named: papiha (Common Hawk-Cuckoo), kokila (Asian Koel), kowah (Crow). Their songs were underscored by the incessant thrumming of mosquitoes, menacing man and animal alike as they flitted in search of their next victims. Mosquitoes, I believe, were put on this planet to humble humans — after all, their mere presence reduces us from power-hungry predators to paltry prey.

          We unloaded our car briskly, swatting the air vigorously all the while, then made our way to the waterside, where a sign welcomed us:

Sundarbans National Park & Tiger Reserve

          A boat and its crew awaited us at the dock: the Delta Queen, captained by a majestically mustached man named Mrittunjoy. The Delta Queen was our ticket into the Sundarbans, the world’s largest mangrove forest situated within the world’s largest river delta. Spanning two countries (India and Bangladesh) and nearly 4,000 square miles, this region boasts a wide range of flora and fauna, with over 200 bird species alone. But the jungle, we were told, was full of terrible dangers—ranging from tree roots to tigers to territorial bees – and thus the water was the safest place for us to observe its biodiversity.

Mangrove trees are unique in that they have aerial roots or “breathing roots” that grow up and out of the water-logged soil. This incredible adaptation has enabled mangroves to thrive in extremely harsh, saline environments; however, these breathing roots are also very sharp and hazardous for land-dwellers.

          Just as the sun began to peek out from behind its ashen curtain, the Delta Queen embarked on its 3-day journey into the Sundarbans Delta, where the sacred Ganges River empties into the Bay of Bengal. Mrittunjoy had a keen eye for spotting birds, and he promptly began to point out Kingfishers concealed in masses of mangrove roots. He soliloquized about the species of the Sundarbans; about the sea and its stringent saltiness; about the sweets that might be served at snack-time. Within only a few hours, we had seen deer, monitor lizards, birds of prey, and hundreds of mudskippers along the canal shores.

This amazing shot of a Black-Capped Kingfisher was captured by my incredibly talented uncle, Partha Pratim Saha. You can check out more of his photography on his Instagram and website

          Then, in the late afternoon, as our boat wove down a wider waterway, my sister leapt up from her seat and pointed excitedly towards land. I craned my neck, hoping to catch a glimpse of an elusive Bengal tiger. Instead, I saw…

          A woman. She balanced a pot on her head as she retreated from the riverbank, the pleats of her sari swaying in time with her gait. I squinted at this sight, struggling to see what had attracted my sister’s attention.

          “People live out here?” my sister asked in awe.

          Despite the dangers advertised to us, people do in fact live out there: 4.5 million on the Indian side and even more in Bangladesh. Much of the Sundarbans is protected as a nature reserve, but this region is still one of the most densely populated in the world. The fertile floodplains surrounding the delta are ideal for agricultural production, and there are small fishing villages on the islands within the delta. These settlements are simple and extremely rural, sometimes only accessible by boat.

          Discomfort settled over me as I realized that we had been observing these villagers with unabashed scrutiny, just as we had been observing the flora and the fauna. They’re not here for my viewing pleasure, I scorned myself. Yet, I couldn’t tear my eyes away. The sight of this woman was jarring, I realized, because her life was so necessarily attuned and inextricably tethered to the patterns of the earth: the comings and goings of the rains, the cycles of the moon, the ebbs and flows of the tide. Every morning, while I stumble to my bathroom and turn on the tap, this woman carries a pot down to the riverside and fetches her water straight from the Sundarbans Delta. Though united by our shared humanity, I couldn’t help but feel species away from her, as distant as I felt from the exotic Kingfishers.

          Over the remainder of our jungle cruise, Mrittunjoy pointed out local fishing boats and informed us about the villagers’ practices of collecting honey from wild rock bees. He explained that the locals fish the delta from June to December, then pause all fishing activities and collect honey between March and May to ensure sustainable harvesting practices. As he continued to intersperse facts about the local people’s customs with his commentary on cobras and crocodiles, my unease grew. I became acutely aware of the separation between us and them; between our tour boat and the Sundarbans – their home.

          Indeed, from the safety of our tour boat, it was all too easy to view these villagers as another species altogether; to assume that they are somehow less susceptible to the forecasted dangers of the Sundarbans simply by virtue of surviving there everyday. This is not the case. The villagers enter the jungle at their own peril, for tiger attacks are common. Yet, they have no choice; aquaculture and beekeeping are the only ways for them to make a living. In this way, the villagers are equal contributors to the Sundarbans ecosystem; they survive on the offerings of the jungle, at any time prone to becoming offerings themselves – whether to tigers or to mosquitoes. Sometimes predators, sometimes prey, these villagers remind us that humans are but one species acting within complex, multi-species ecosystems. They challenge the illusion that humans are always, unequivocally, at the top of the food chain.

Some more breathtaking captures of the Sundarbans food chain by my uncle, Partha Pratim Saha

          But then, if the villagers are prey, what is it that seeks to predate them? Is it really the tigers, prowling innocently in search of their next meal? Or is it the tour companies that ferry paying foreigners out by the dozens, predatory in their promise of ‘exotic experiences’ at the expense of ecological peace? These tour companies are required to hold permits, and they are (in theory) regulated by strict legislation. But the laws prohibiting pollution are not enforced – I personally witnessed a great deal of waste during our three days onboard the Delta Queen. Though I remained firmly on the boat, I was drawn into this larger socio-political ecosystem of the Sundarbans, animated not by waters and winds but by neoliberal greed and corruption. We may have been safe from the jungle, but the jungle was not safe from us.

          In climate change discourse, humans are usually positioned against nature — and for good reason! Humans have too often exploited nature’s balance to our gain. However, I reject the notion that humans are always and can only ever be antagonistic forces on nature. As we see in the Sundarbans, humans can be protectors and stewards of their lands; they, too, can contribute to ecological balance. We need only to remember that we are – despite our daily differences – the same species as the villagers of the Sundarbans. We are products of our environments, not just polluters of them.

          Though protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the fragile brackish ecosystem of the Sundarbans is extremely vulnerable to climate change, and many of its inhabitant species are endangered—including humans!! Rising salinity levels, coastline erosion, cyclones, and floods threaten to disrupt the precarious natural balance of the Sundarbans and displace the millions of people who live there, triggering an environmental refugee crisis. We cannot allow this to happen!

Climate change is NOT inevitable OR irreversible.

We are ALL a part of this global ecosystem, and we all stand to benefit by saving it.

          If you are interested in learning more about the Sundarbans, or if you’d like to donate in support of its inhabitants, please visit the links below:

Read about/ see maps of the Sundarbans UNESCO World Heritage Site

Read Misreading the Bengal Delta by Camelia Dewan

Donate to the Sundarban Foundation to support tiger victims and other humans in the Sundarbans through medical aid, employment, and education.

Donate to The Canopy Project Sundarbans to support environmental conservation and restoration.

Donate to AID India to support natural disaster relief and climate resilience infrastructure.